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Amarnath Yatra - A Retrospective
(A retrospective of a recent eventful pilgrimage to Amarnath Cave)

-R M Nair

           It was a war-clouded yatra. The pilgrims' vehicles had police escort from Jammu in view of the conflagration at the border and a spurt in militancy. There were doubts in the beginning but the traffic picked up gradually. As the rush started, pilgrims had to wait a few days for their turn to join the yatra. Serpentine queues were seen for last-minute registration, especially as unscrupulous travel agents misled the hopeful yatris on registration requirements and overbooked trips to Jammu for a fast buck. Funds were also collected in different parts of the country by instant organisations.

          The Jammu and Kashmir Government regulated the flow of yatris to the holy cave at the rate of 2,500 pilgrims per day. It had set up tented accommodations along the routes and provided beds and blankets at reasonable rates. The regulations follow a calamity that befell yatris a few years ago. Hundreds of people died in rain and avalanches then. Lakhs used to rush for the cave but now the regulated figure is 75,000 per season. The rush used to be especially uncontrollable during the auspicious Poornima day.

          Last year the yatra began by the end of July and ended on August 26 with the arrival of the Chhari Mubarak, the holy mace of Lord Shiva, at the cave. By this time 1.07 lakh pilgrims from various parts of the country had paid their obeisance. Registration had begun a month in advance. Initially the response was dull due to the border war with Pakistan, but the pilgrimage picked up and then trekking went on smoothly except for the usual minor mishaps of landslides and road accidents. The Baltal route via Sonamarg was also opened but pilgrims preferred the traditional route.

          The yatra was by and large a disappointment last time for another reason: The lingam did not assume its size and shape! It was not visible for most part of the season. Probably, it would have been melting away in high temperature. The snowfall was also very low. Best of luck next time!

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